Raun Mendung ke Pulau Enggano

Cerpen: Benny Hakim Benardie

Laju Ojek berhenti  di Pelabuhan Pulau Baai Bengkulu kota. Persis setengah jam sebelum adzan magrib  berkumandang  dari geladak Kapal Ferry KMP Pulo Tello, yang siap menghantarkan penumpang raun mengarungi Samudera Hindia, menuju Pulau Enggano. Pulau terluar Provinsi Bengkulu Indonesia.

Para penumpang masuk, usai membeli tiket kelas selera. Yang ada dibenak ku suasana akan terjadi seperti mengarung Selat Sunda Bakauhuni Lampung- Merak Lampung, atau pejalanan dari Pelabuhan Tanjung Priok Jakarta menuju Tanjung Perak Surabaya. Ternyata tidak seperti yang dibayangkan.

Banyak hal yang menarik unik hingga pilu, saat masuk di geladak kapal sekira pukul 18.37 WIB. Indah memang, saat sunset mulai menghilang, tenggelam  dari pandangan mata para penumpang kapal. Melonggok diujung langit aku hingga pukul 18.44 WIB, kapalpun belum juga berangkat. Aku mencoba merapikan tas dan tempat istirahat, melintasi mushalah, tampak kaum muslim menunggu antrian untuk beribadah, mengingat ruangan yang terbatas.

Amatanku sempat berhenti, terhenyak melihat  Isteri disaksikan ketiga anaknya lagi  ngedumeli suaminya. Katanya, isteri naik pitam, karena suaminya yang tampak tertunduk kuyuh itu, telah  menghilangkan tas berisi obat dan pakaian entah dimana. Belasan hujatan dan cercaan membuat Sang suami menjadi kemayu. Tak menghiraukan geladak ruang istirahat itu sesak penumpang, bahkan ada nenek dan kakek  tua renta disebelahnya, itu bukan halangan untuk berang.

Mungkin hal seperti itu sudah sering terjadi dalam suasana geladak istirahat, tampak para penumpang lainnya tetap mendengkur. Sisi lain, kepulan asap rokokpun penuhi ruangan, menanti waktu kapal diberangkatkan ke pulau terluar Provinsi Bengkulu Indonesia  ini, Enggano Insland dengan waktu tempuh 12 jam perjalanan mengarungi samudera Hindia.

Pria, wanita hingga anak-anak campurbaur tergeletak, terlungkup bahkan terkangkang.  Tentunya ini membedakan dengan kelas  bisnis yang lebih nyaman yang sejuk. Beda tempat tapi rasa goyangnya  sama.

Sekira  pukul 18.52 wib terdengar suara klakson dari kapal KM Pulo Tello, seiring suara mesin kapal menggerung memekak telingga dari kelas ekonomi, yang posisi geladak dekat dengan mesin kapal. Ini pertanda persiapan kapal akan diberangkatkan meninggalkan Bengkulu kota. Hingga pukul 18.50 WIB,  kapalpun melaju berlahan namun pasti.

Belum usai keluar dari dermaga Pulau Baai yang dibangun zaman Koloni Belanda, awalnya diperuntukan untuk pesawat apung Koloni Belanda mendarat, para penumpang dipertontonkan saat melintasi  banyak kapal tongkang yang biasa  mengangkut komoditi batu bara.

Pulau Enggano

Disambut Gerimis

Akhirnya kapal keluar kolam dermaga sekira pukul 19.22 WIB disambut cuaca gerimis.  KMP  Pulo Tello  terus melaju berlahan.  Alunan ombak membuat para penumbang seperti usai meminum  tuak. Bergoyang maju mundur depan belakang saat melangkah. Untungnya gerimis tak berlangsung  lama.

Malam itu, tepat pukul 21.26 WIB. Langit  diperairan Bengkulu kota  tampak kelam. Para penumpang  ada yang inisiatif berlabuh ke ‘pulau kapuk’,  terlelap tidur.  Ada juga  terdengar  beberapa penumpang menghibur diri  dalam perjalanan dengan berkaraoke.  Harapannya sama, nyaman mengarungi samudera hindia dengan Alunan ombak yang tak begitu mengocok isi perut.

Sesekali  kegelapan tembus pandang. Tampak cahaya dari arah selatan Bengkulu. Mungkin secercah kedipan cahaya lampu mercusuar. Aku tetap terperangah ke laut lepas. Tak ada khayal dan harapan, selain ketabjuban akan kebesaran Tuhan. Seakan aku baru menemukan kekuasaan ciptaan Tuhan.

Malam ini kebesaran dan keagungan illahi mulai merasuki dan terpancar dijiwa ku yang dzhalim. Kian terasa  akan ketidakberdayaan, saat ditengah laut luas  yang seakan tak bertepi ini. Teringat akan anak isteri yang ditinggalkan dengan  bekal seadanya. Teringat akan   kehidupan dan perekonomian yang  belum jelas juntrungannya. “Semoga engkau sabar Dewi. Aku pergi hanya beberapa hari untuk mencari inspirasi, mengisi sisi dalam kehidupanku. Jaga anak anak. Doakan aku”.  Doa terucap saat kapal mulai lebay  tatkala aku berada dipinggiran geladak kapal.

Merasa ketakberdayaan saat tanah tak dipijak, kucoba menghibur dengan kata-kata bijak yang sempat ku baca belasan tahun lalu. “Senjata mematikan dari seorang pejuang adalah pikirannya. Karena itu, tajamkanlah pikiran dengan ilmu pengetahuan…..Satu musuh terlalu banyak, seribu kawan terlalu sedikit. Rohidin Mersyah dua priode”, renungku. Aku sempat tersenyum sendiri. Tak habis pikir saat kalimat terakhir, aku menyebut Bakal Calon Gubernur Bengkulu yang notabene incumbent.

“Kok bisa kearah  kesana ya arah pikiranku”, tanyaku dalam hati geli.

Larut malam membawa dingin mengerawang tubuh. Tak jua ada kesunyian dan ketenangan rupanya, meskipun ditengah laut lepas sunyi senyap bertabur bintang. Suara deru kapal dan televisi tetap saja terdengar berisik ditengah tak tergapai sinyal selular.

Pukul 5.00 WIB fajar, tampak bongkahan hitam dari kejauhan. Teryata itulah Pulau Enggano. Pulau dengan penduduk etnik yang unik.  Kapal siap merapat di Dermaga Malakoni dan kaki melangkah tanpa titik tujuan. Ironinya, tak ada tumpangan yang mau ditumpangi. Langkah kaki akhirnya terhenti di sebuah Kantor Kepala Desa Apoho untuk beristirahat.

Rupanya dari kejauhan Seorang TNI berbaju loreng melihat kegelisahanku dari kejauhan. Sembari menyambangi dengan iklas tentara  itu meyambangi dan menawarkan untuk berinap di perumahan areal Kantor Koramil. Dengan rasa lega tawaran disambut, sembari memikul beban ransel dan laptop. Ternyata Sosok tentara itu terakhir diketahui adalah Komandan Koramil Pulau Enggano.

Nyamuk Berkaki Hitam Putih

Aku  belum mampu beristirahat dengan nyaman, meskipun dikediaman militer. Di benakku, gangguan nyamuk berkaki hitam putih lebih menakutkan. Berbagai hal menghantui, saat seekor nyamuk berhasil menghisap darah, saat pagi menjelang siang itu.

Memburu warung terdekat tampaknya merupakan pilihan. Informasi Pulau Enggano yang dulunya di sebut Pulau Perempuan itu diperoleh. Kini Pulau terluar itu  sudah memiliki penerangan listrik. Hanya saja hingga pukul 12.00 WIB siang, listrik akan dipadamkan sampai pukul 05.00 WIB menjelang. Pemadaman akan berulang hingga pukul 12.00 WIB tengah malam. Sebuah kondisi yang mungkin akan mengerikan di era modernisasi ini. Ditengah program Provinsi Bengkulu membutuhkan sumber daya manusia unggulan.

Terbetik pilupun ada terasa, saat mengetahui sarana infra struktur jalan yang rusak maupun yang belum terjamah aspal. Belum lagi kekurangan tenaga guru dan para medis yang terkadang jarang memenuhi tugas mulianya.

Sembari menumpang dengan salah seorang kenalan, aku mencoba seharian ini berkeliling, raun tiap desa yang terdiri dari lima suku dengan satu kelompok tambahan. Perjalan menyusuri pulau ditengah Samudera Hindia, dengan penduduk 4221 Jiwa banyak mendapat kajian logis. Selama perjalanan, tampak pepohonan di hutan belantara yang berumur 10 hingga 20 tahun. Timbul pertanyaanku, kemana pepohonan yang uurnya ratusan tahun tegak berdiri di pulau ini. Apakah memang dari dahulu tidak ada pepohonan yang berumur panjang?

Perjalanan terhenti, usai mengetahui Pulau Enggano merupakan pendistribusi pisang, jengkol, ikan kering dan emping melinjo. Hari menjelang gelap. Kain sarungpun menutupi sekujur tubuh, menanti hari esok  mengkaji perjalanan sejarah masa lampau The Enggano Insland for Bencoolen.

*Cerpenis tinggal di Bengkulu Kota

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